C ome summer, everyone wants to cook out. Chris Schlesinger, a Boston-based chef who is noted for his grilling recipes has six rules for healthful grilling... plus three of his favorite grilling recipes. Together, they make for a great cookout.

AVOID CHARCOAL BRIQUETTES

Briquettes contain petroleum-based compounds that can wind up in your food. Lump hardwood charcoal -- sold in supermarkets and hardware stores -- makes a better choice.

These irregular lumps of pure charcoal are easier to light than briquettes... and they're free of petroleum products.

Gas grills are easy to use, but food cooked over gas just doesn't taste as good as food cooked over hardwood charcoal.

BUILD A TWO-LEVEL FIRE

If you're not careful, grilled food can end up burnt on the outside and raw on the inside. To avoid this, build a fire with a high-heat area for searing... and a low-heat area to continue cooking food through.

Build your fire on one side of the grill. Once the coals are red-hot, use tongs to move a few over to the other side. Let food get well-seared before moving it to the "cool" side.

USE A CHIMNEY STARTER

Lighter fluid certainly does the job, but a chimney starter costs less and is just as convenient.

Fill the base of the starter with crumpled newspaper, then place it on the grill's fire grate. That's the lower grate, not the one the food touches. Fill the top with charcoal and light the newspaper.

Once the coals are red-hot, spill them onto the fire grate. Use long, fireproof mitts when handling the starter. Reattach the grill (cooking surface). Wait until the coals are covered with gray ash before grilling.

Chimney starters can be purchased at hardware stores.

AVOID OIL-BASED MARINADES

Easy-to-make spice "rubs" are tastier than traditional oil-based marinades, and they're fat free.

All-purpose barbecue rub: Mix one-third cup each of freshly cracked black pepper, kosher salt, lightly packed brown sugar, paprika and cumin. Add two tablespoons each of cayenne pepper, ground allspice and ground ginger. Using your hands, rub it onto poultry or seafood before grilling.

USE STEAK SPARINGLY

If you love steak but fear its high fat content, use it as an accompaniment rather than an entrée. For example, add small bits of steak to a salad of greens or grilled veggies.

Be sure to throw in some grilled Portobello mushrooms. Their texture and flavor are so meaty, even confirmed steak lovers find them satisfying.

TOP FOOD WITH SALSA

Salsas are just as tasty as traditional barbecue sauces -- and much better for you. Try topping grilled chicken or swordfish with a mixture of chopped tomatoes, fresh cilantro and lime juice.

And now for the recipes...

BASIL-GARLIC CHICKEN BREASTS WITH GRILLED BALSAMIC PEACHES

The balsamic glaze takes 20 minutes to make, but it keeps for weeks. It tastes great brushed on any type of grilled meat. So cook up a double or triple batch while you're at it.

2 cups balsamic vinegar

½ cup molasses

4 to 6 Tablespoons freshly cracked black pepper

1 cup roughly chopped fresh basil

6 Tablespoons minced garlic

½ cup olive oil

8 10-ounce whole boneless chicken breasts

Salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste

8 peaches, halved and pitted

1. In a small saucepan over the fire, bring the vinegar to a boil. Cook until it is reduced by half (20 to 25 minutes). Stir in the molasses and cracked black pepper. Remove from heat, and set aside.

2. In a small bowl, mix the basil, garlic and olive oil. Rub the chicken breasts with this mixture, and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Grill skin side down until skin is crispy (eight to 10 minutes). Check for doneness by nicking one of the breasts at the thickest point. It should be opaque, with no traces of pink.

3. As the chicken is finishing up, place the peaches on the grill, cut side down. Grill until nicely browned (about two minutes). Flip them, and brush the cut side with the balsamic glaze. Cook for another two minutes. Remove from the grill, and give them another coat of glaze. Serve them whole or sliced over the chicken breasts (removing chicken skin first, if desired). Serves eight.

GRILLED PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS WITH THYME

These meaty mushrooms are a tasty, healthful substitute for steak.

8 six-inch portobello mushrooms (more if smaller), stemmed and cleaned

½ cup olive oil

½ cup roughly chopped fresh thyme leaves

Salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste

1. In a medium bowl, combine the mushrooms, oil, thyme, salt and pepper. Toss well.

2. Grill for three to four minutes per side. The mushrooms should feel firm to the touch, but not hard. Serves eight.

GRILLED PINEAPPLE WITH SWEET LIME BLACK PEPPER SAUCE

Grilled fruit may sound like an unusual dessert, but grilling enhances fruit's natural sweetness and deepens its flavor. With its sturdy texture, pineapple is the best fruit for grilling.

20 black peppercorns, finely crushed

¼ cup light corn syrup

¼ cup fresh lime juice (about two limes)

1 teaspoon dried mint

2 pineapples, peeled and cut into 16 one-inch-thick slices

¼ cup roughly chopped fresh mint

1. In a small saucepan, combine the pepper, corn syrup, lime juice and dried mint. Cook over the fire, stirring occasionally, until just warm (about five minutes). Remove from heat and let cool.

2. Place the pineapple slices on the grill. Cook until lightly charred (about four minutes per side). During the last 30 seconds of cooking, brush with the lime-pepper sauce, then remove from the grill.

3. Stir the fresh mint into the remaining sauce. Serve two slices of pineapple to each person, topped with several tablespoons of sauce. Serves eight.